Saturday, October 12, 2013

Lycian Way Day 12, "Stepping Stones" - Phellos - Kas, March 20, 2013

Stepping Stones Camp to Kas -

As per usual, wake up, start hiking.... After crossing the river, it became a staight-up slog through pine forests with few views.  Eventually we reached a saddle. After becoming slightly lost in shin scraping brush (as per usual), we made it to a large water source/ camping spot where we met our first hikers on the trail.  They were hiking in the opposite direction from the guidebook, which is crazy, because those little red and white devils, i.e. the Lycian Way Markers, are nearly impossible to follow in the right direction, let alone having to move forward while looking behind to see if you there are markers.  Yes, it's that hard.

Gedikagizi saddle enroute to Phellos
We reached a road, and decided based on the crappy map and talking to a motorcycle rider, that we could safely follow the road instead of scratching ourselves to death following the markers in the nearby brush. Of course, we wasted a lot of time worrying that we were making a mistake, but eventually picked up the trail again, where we continued through overgrown brush straight up to the ancient sight of "Phellos"
Robin on the awesome trail to Phellos
Phellos was pretty cool, but we were pretty jaded at this point. The guidebook mentioned a life-sized bull statue somewhere, so we spent a lot of time trying to find that, but with no luck.  It's sort of a sprawling sight at the top of a mountain, overgrown everywhere.  Really cool, but like I said, we were jaded, and tired, so were not properly impressed.  Plus I couldn't find my damn bull.
Lycian Way, Phellos Ruins
The march back down the hillside towards the village of Cukuragag was stupid steep, with ankle-roller rocks. Once again, Grant and I had been making fun of the other bloggers who had complained about how rocky the trail was.  We were like, "what's the matter?  Never been hiking before?" Well, this is different.  It's just the right sized rocks that you can't step around them, but when you step on them, which is every step, it causes your ankles to roll.  You are constanly fighting to not fall down or break your legs all while going down a steep hill with a heavy pack.  Woo hoo Lycian Way.

We got down into the village of Cukugag, but nobody from the pansiyon came running out to invite us in.  Also, nobody talked to us.  It was a very different feel then from the other villages we went to.  The guidebook said there were no dolmus's there. Actually it says "There is no bus service to Kas." The Pansiyon didn't seem open, plus we didn't want to hike back uphill to find out for sure, and we desperately did not want to keep walking and find a place to camp.  We found a mother walking her kid home and asked about a dolmus to Kas, just to make sure.  She's like, of course there is one, but it may be awhile.  We waited and waited, watching the town dogs play, and the little boys running up and down the street.  We asked another person about the dolmus, and they assured us there would be one.  Finally, salvation.  A bus to Kas.  Once again, the guidebook was wrong.

The way down to Kas, a larger seaside city, was steep!!!  Very very steep.  By taking the bus and skipping section 13 of the guidebook, we basically saved our knees and a day of our lives.  Who knows if we missed something important, or dramatic, but I kind of don't think so, so highly advise everybody to skip it, and just get a dolmus.

Despite Kas being our salvation, it was also total culture shock. We were back on the Lonely Planet track in a tourist town. We trekked all over trying to find a pansiyon I wanted to stay at, settling in at a top-rated Lonely Planet spot, where I had a terrible time trying to get our laundry done. (pretty important chore when you only have two shirts, one pants, two underwear, two socks, etc...)

Arghh...Food, beer, sleep.

And the Map:

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